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ABC World News with Diane Sawyer Invites Viewers to Have a “Great Made in America Christmas” — Are You In?

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By David Ford
Nov 28, 2012


“World News with Diane Sawyer” is once again asking viewers if they are “in” for “The Great Made in America Christmas.” The holiday installment of the popular “Made in America” series kicks off on Wednesday, November 29 asking families from across the country “are you in?” for creating more American jobs this holiday season by buying more American-made gifts. The National Retail Federation estimates Americans will spend more than $586 billion this year on holiday gifts and goodies –  that’s $750 per shopper. Economists tell “World News” that if we all spent just $64 more on gifts with a “Made in America” label, we could create 200,000 new American jobs.

Reports will air each Wednesday during the month of December as “ABC World News” weekend anchor David Muir scours the country for the best gifts that are made in American towns. Along the way he will introduce viewers to some proud American businesses, the people they employ, and the ingenious products they make.

Viewers who want to join in on “The Great Made in America Christmas” this holiday shopping season can get more information at ABCNews.com/WorldNews.

“ABC World News with Diane Sawyer” airs at 6:30 p.m., ET on the ABC Television Network.  Michael Corn is the executive producer of the broadcast. Follow Diane Sawyer and the “World News” team online: @DianeSawyer; @ABCWorldNews; facebook.com/DianeSawyer; facebook.com/WorldNews.

About “Made in America”
In 2011 “World News with Diane Sawyer” kicked off a special series, “Made in America,” to examine American manufacturing, the economy, and what simple things people can do every day to help power up jobs in this country. “World News” continues to highlight various American businesses that are contributing to their local economies and creating more jobs here in the U.S.

Follow the Made in America Movement on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Tumbler, and Google+
Email us for corporate membership and/or sponsorship details: info@TheMadeinAmericaMovement.com


SOURCE: ABC News
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A Documentary Examines the ‘Made in China’ Label

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By PETER NAVARRO

“I personally do look at the labels of where things are made, but sometimes I go to buy things and it’s impossible to find something that isn’t made in China.” These words from U.S.-China Commission member Carolyn Bartholomew from my new documentary film “Death By China” aptly summarize a dilemma many American consumers find themselves in as they learn more about the economic, social, and moral costs of buying seemingly cheap “Made in China” products.
(A spokesman for the Consulate General of China in Los Angeles didn’t return a request for comment for this essay.)

Since China joined the World Trade Organization in 2001 and gained full access to American markets, the AFL-CIO claims that over 50,000 factories in America have disappeared along with more than 6 million manufacturing jobs. For these reasons, AFL-CIO President Richard Trumka in the film urges people who pick up a product Made in China to “think about your relative that just got laid off or the factory that just got shut down. Think about the school that is doing with less because the manufacturing base has gone and the tax base has left. Think about the lower income that you’re receiving now because we’re not making products, and we’re not buying our own products.”

And here’s something else former Canadian Minister of Parliament David Kilgour wants you to think about as you consider your next Made in China purchase: That product may well have been made by prison labor. To emphasize his point, Kilgour in the film relates this darkly comic and well-documented tale about Charles Lee, an American citizen arrested in China and detained in one of China’s forced labor camps for three years: “When Lee was finally released thanks to pressure from the American people, he came back to New Jersey, and he was in a store, and he saw these big [Homer Simpson] slippers that he’d made in the work camp.”

Beyond the issues of jobs and human rights, there is also the prodigious air, soil, and water pollution generated annually by China’s factory floor. In fact, a study conducted by the World Health Organization found that China now has 16 of the 20 most polluted cities in the world.

Perhaps most unsettling is the well-documented tendency of at least some unscrupulous entrepreneurs in China to alter their products with toxic ingredient substitutes as a means of cutting costs and boosting profits. Well-publicized scandals to date have included the spiking of both pet food and baby formula with deadly melamine and the blood thinner heparin with lethal oversulfated condroitin sulfate. We’ve also seen lead paint in toys, antifreeze in toothpaste, baby cribs with choking hazards, tainted drywall, the list goes on and on.

The problem as Forbes columnist Gordon Chang describes it is “a political system that does not punish manufacturers for bad products. And it’s because it’s the nature of the political system. The Communist Party does not allow independent prosecutors, doesn’t allow a free press, doesn’t allow people to complain about bad products.”

Given the chronic failure of America’s politicians to confront China on these issues, in my opinion, if more consumers would pause at the Made in China label, that would be all to the good. As Judith Samuelson suggests at the end of the film: “I think that at every level, people could boycott to some extent, and there would be a shot heard around the world.”

Peter Navarro is a business professor at the University of California-Irvine. He wrote, produced, and directed the documentary “Death By China.” For for more information go here.  


SOURCE: Wall Street Journal
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Bangladesh Factory in Fire: WalMart & Disney Among Clients

in News, Walmart

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Firefighters hose down a blaze at a 10-story clothing factory on Nov. 26 in the Dhaka suburb of Uttara, Bangladesh. The fire broke out as people mourned more than 110 factory workers killed in a fire two days earlier at the Tazreen Fashion plant. | Photo Credit: AFP/Getty Images

DHAKA, Bangladesh (AP) — Amid the ash, broken glass and melted sewing machines at what is left of the Tazreen Fashions Ltd. factory, there are piles of blue, red and off-white children’s shorts bearing Wal-Mart’s Faded Glory brand. Shorts from hip-hop star Sean Combs’ ENYCE label lay on the floor and are stacked in cartons.

An Associated Press reporter searching the factory Wednesday found these and other clothes, including sweaters from the French company Teddy Smith, among the equipment charred in the fire that killed 112 workers Saturday. He also found entries in account books indicating that the factory took orders to produce clothes for Disney, Sears , nd other Western brands.

Garments and documents left behind in the factory show it was used by a host of major American and European retailers, though at least one of them — Wal-Mart — had been aware of safety problems. Wal-Mart blames a supplier for using Tazreen Fashions without its knowledge.

The fire has elevated awareness of something labor groups, retailers and governments have known for years: Bangladesh’s fast-growing garment industry — second only to China’s in exports — is rife with dangerous workplaces. More than 300 workers there have died in fires since 2006.

Police on Wednesday arrested three factory officials suspected of locking in the workers who died in Saturday’s fire, the deadliest in the South Asian country’s less than 35-year history of exporting clothing.

Local police chief Habibur Rahman said the three will be questioned amid reports that many workers trying to escape the blaze had been locked inside. He said the owner of the factory was not among those arrested.

The three officials were arrested Wednesday at their homes in Savar, the Dhaka suburb where the factory is also located. Rahman did not identify the officials or give their job status.

Workers who survived the fire say exit doors were locked, and a fire official has said that far fewer people would have died if there had been just one emergency exit. Of the dead, 53 bodies were burned so badly they could not be identified; they were buried anonymously.

The fire started on the ground floor, where a factory worker named Nasima said stacks of yarn and clothes blocked part of the stairway.

Nasima, who uses only one name, said that when workers tried to flee, managers told them to go back to their work stations, but they were ignored.

Dense smoke filled the stairway, making it hard to see, and when the lights went out the workers were left in total darkness. Another surviving worker, Mohammad Rajiv, said some people used their cellphones to light their way.

“Everyone was screaming for help,” Nasima said. “Total chaos, panic and screaming. Everyone was trying to escape and come out. I was pulling the shirt of a man. I fainted and when I woke up I found myself lying on the road outside the factory.

“I don’t know how I survived.”

Rajiv said the factory conducted a fire drill just three days before the fire broke out, but no one used the fire extinguishers. “Only a selected group of workers are trained to use the extinguishers. Others have no idea how to use them,” he said.

Now windows at the eight-story factory are broken, sewing machines melted or burned to ash. Much of the clothing on the lower floors was incinerated. Nightgowns, children’s shorts, pants, jackets and sweat shirts were strewn about, piled up in some places, boxed in others.

Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina and Interior Minister Muhiuddin Khan Alamgir have said arson is suspected. Police say they have not ruled out sabotage.

Wal-Mart had received an audit deeming the factory “high risk” last year, said it had decided to stop doing business with Tazreen, but that a supplier subcontracted work to the factory anyway. Wal-Mart said it stopped working with that supplier on Monday.

Calls made to The Walt Disney Company and to Sears Holdings were not immediately returned.

Local TV reports said about 3,000 garment workers held protests over the fire Wednesday, blocking roads and throwing stones at some factories and vehicles. It was the third straight day of demonstrations, and as they did previously, factories in the area closed to avoid violence.

Police used batons to disperse the protesters, but no injuries were immediately reported.

According to local television, most factories in the area closed after opening briefly because of the protests — a common tactic to avoid violence.
—–
Associated Press writer Farid Hossain in Dhaka, Bangladesh, contributed to this report.


SOURCE: USA Today
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Is Traditional America Dying?

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Tim Martin
11/18/2012

On a recent Fox News show, Bill O’Reilly, the rabble-rousing host of the “O’Reilly Factor” stated that President Obama’s reelection was due to “entitlement” voters. He went on to call Obama the poster boy for “progressive secularism,” a movement bent on destroying traditional America and replacing it with dependency and poverty.
Bill’s comments made me wonder: is traditional America really dying? And is our country falling apart because of it? Or is O’Reilly spouting the politics of panic and fear because a free society is becoming more free? Is he hearkening back to a golden era of simplicity that never was?

Actually, I was not surprised by O’Reilly’s irrational observations. The Republican party threw every weapon it had at President Obama during the recent election, including racism, birtherism, homophobia, xenophobia, socialism, communism, sexism, tax laws, abortion, birth control, legitimate rape, Kenya, NPR and Big Bird.

It didn’t start there, either. Those Chicken Little cries of “The Sky is Falling” started long before President Obama ever arrived on the scene.

When we declared our Independence from England, there were some who said it would be a disaster and was doomed to fail. When we ended slavery, others also declared that it was the end of America. Likewise, when we stopped segregation, gave women the right to vote, and allowed gays to openly serve in the military. They were wrong in all cases, and today we are a stronger nation because of the changes.Despite O’Reilly’s accusations about the president, which include everything from losing the big picture of God and country, to bowing and apologizing to corrupt leaders, to wreaking havoc on society with welfare, abortion and the public school system, to running us off a fiscal cliff with entitlements for the poor, the death of traditional America has little to do with Obama. It has more to do with the wealthy. Ask yourself this: why aren’t tax perks for the rich, agricultural subsidies for mega-farms, $700 billion dollar bank bailouts and lobbyists securing legislation favorable only to the rich labeled entitlements? I don’t know about you, but I call that welfare at the highest level.

The real truth about traditional America, though, is that this country is shifting, not sinking. Someone needs to tell O’Reilly that you can’t run a modern government based on ideals that are hundreds of years old (or thousands, if you believe the Bible). It was once legal to own people, to force employees to work in unsafe conditions, and to not allow women the right to vote. Face it, traditional America was never good for women, Native Americans, African-Americans, Asians, the disabled or the elderly.

It’s funny how quickly we forget the bigotry, homophobia and racism that was so common in our past. Remember the centuries of slavery, followed by segregation, religious intolerance, sweat factories, Salem witch hunts, McCarthy era communism, exploitation of immigrant labor, racism, anti-Semitism, economic oppression of the poor, and the breaking of treaties with Native Americans? If that’s tradition, who needs it?

Bill O’Reilly is cherry picking history. The idealized version of America he envisions is one where white men were the dominant social class, diversity was feared, a person’s worth was measured by the size of their bank balance, and the regulation of a woman’s body by church and state was good. Bill would like to go back to a time when the government, not you, decides who you can and can’t marry. Back to when the votes of minorities and women didn’t count, and where it was perfectly OK for individuals in power to force their beliefs and ideology on others.

I hate to burst O’Reilly’s bubble, but American history is no Norman Rockwell painting.

If you’re searching for traditional America, the best place to look is in the White House. President Obama and the first lady are strong supporters of traditional values of faith, and caring for one’s neighbors and family. They don’t think people should go bankrupt over health insurance or go hungry for lack of food. They want all religious institutions protected, but don’t want them (or the government) to dictate who should have access to contraceptives. The president and his wife believe that the education of our children is important, and that we need to do everything possible to keep them happy and healthy. That’s the kind of America I want to carry forward into the future.

Tim Martin resides in McKinleyville

SOURCE:  Times-Standard
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Made In America Has A New Ring

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TJ McCue
11/19/2012

It is no surprise that 80 percent of U.S. consumers vote for American-made. But over 60 percent of Chinese consumers also say that they are willing to pay more for products labeled “Made in USA” than for those labeled “Made in China,” according to new research released by The Boston Consulting Group (BCG).
In surveying Chinese consumers, BCG found a willingness to pay more for U.S.-made goods. The results showed the following:

  • More than 60 percent of Chinese consumers are willing to pay more for Made in USA goods.
  • Nearly 50 percent of Chinese consumers prefer a product made in the U.S. to a China-made product of equivalent price and quality.
  • The premium that Chinese consumers are willing to pay ranges from about 10 percent to almost 80 percent in the categories tested.
  • More than half had chosen U.S.-made products over less expensive Chinese goods at least once in the month before the survey.

The data shows that Made in the USA resonates even stronger for U.S. consumers, of course.

Naturally, this presents a great opportunity for the many small businesses and manufacturers to tap into a new market like China with over a billion people. Many have tried to tap overseas markets only to fail because of the cultural differences, government red tape (on both sides), and shipping logistics, just to name a few of the challenges. The good news is there are many international trade resources for navigating this complex arena.

If you are looking to understand what your competitors are shipping, you can check out a company like Manifest Journals where a business connection of mine, Michael Heffernan, helps companies make sense of U.S. Customs Import Trade Data. Or head to the International Trade Administration to start your exporting journey. The USA.gov site on international trade is also a powerful resource.

The findings—part of BCG’s ongoing study of the changing global economics of manufacturing and its Made in America, Again research series—support previous BCG analysis showing that the U.S. is becoming increasingly attractive as a location for making certain products for the U.S. market and as a base for global exports.

The U.S. has improved its cost competitiveness compared with China and the advanced economies of Western Europe and Japan, leading BCG to estimate that higher U.S. exports—combined with production “reshored” from China—could create 2.5 million to 5 million new U.S. jobs in manufacturing and related services by the end of the decade (which I’ve reported on earlier this year).

In both the U.S. and China, respondents of all age groups and income levels expressed a concern for quality, a key driver of the consumer preference for U.S.-made products. Eighty-five percent of U.S. consumers and 82 percent of Chinese said they “agree” or “strongly agree” that they feel better about Made in USA quality. Patriotism is another strong consideration among U.S. consumers: 93 percent said that they would pay more for U.S.-made goods in order to keep jobs in the U.S., and 80 percent said that buying U.S. products demonstrates patriotism.

In contrast to U.S. and Chinese consumers, European consumers strongly prefer products made in their own countries. More than 65 percent of consumers in both Germany and France said that they would be willing to pay more for products made in their home country than for those made in the U.S.


SOURCE: FORBES
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Shopping for American-Made Holiday Gifts – Renewed Focus on Gifts Made in USA

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With many shoppers in a patriotic mood after the election, the focus turns to gifts made in the USA this holiday season.
Get ready for a red, white and blue Christmas.

Read more

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The Revival of American Manufacturing: An Update

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Nov. 15, 2012
Chris Mayer

You know those little throwaway plastic red cups that you see at parties? You can buy a case of 288 of these Solo red plastic cups for about $36. I’ll do the math for you: That’s about 12.5 cents per cup. It’s a cheap, low-end item. Made in China, right?

Nope. Made in the USA. The Solo Cup Co. makes them in Lake Forest, Ill.

Recently, another company started making an almost identical-looking reusable red cup. Trudeau USA makes millions of these cups, which they call simply the Red Party Cup. This was a job that in another year not so long ago might’ve headed to China. Not today.

American manufacturing is quietly enjoying a revival on some levels. Goods once made in China are now coming back to the USA — a process called re-shoring. In May, I wrote to my Capital & Crisis readers about “A New Trend ‘Sneaking up on People’”. I talked to Scott Huff, a principal at Innovate International, an engineering design and contract manufacturer for several industries. Scott was actively involved in re-shoring. Recently, I talked to Scott again to get an update.

“That red cup has been one of the most successful things we’ve re-shored,” he told me. I love this story precisely because it goes against what so many people think they know. They think US manufacturing is in inevitable decline. The red cup story is another strand in a growing thread of anecdotal evidence to the contrary.

As Scott says:
“It’s against the paradigm that people have accepted [about what is made in China]. But people are usually about a decade behind in their perceptions. Anything that’s got a significant amount of money on the bill for shipping to the US, you’ve got to consider making it in the US. The shipping that we’re saving, and the fact that we don’t have to carry so much inventory, frees up cash.”
This is especially important now, when it is hard to finance trade. A business always has a certain amount tied up in bills yet to be collected (accounts receivable) and inventory. Usually, banks will finance a decent chunk of this. I was a banker before I started writing newsletters. Financing these trading assets was part of my meal ticket. (The other was financing real estate.) But today, banks are reluctant lenders, for a lot of reasons we won’t get into now.

The end result is kind of like what we see in the mortgage market: superlow rates that not many borrowers can access. Ergo, manufacturers need to run lean these days.

“So,” Scott continues, “if you can make your manufacturing process leaner, you can free up cash. One way to do that is to make it local and turn over the dollars faster.” This way, you don’t have cash sitting in goods on a boat from China.

Driving the renaissance is more than just shipping costs, of course. Many of the factors we talked about back in May are still in play today. Namely: It is getting expensive to do business in China.

“The glory days of China’s export business are over,” Scott says. “Now it is down to hard work. The adjustment in the renminbi [China’s currency] took some of the pressure off the export companies, but the cost of living continues to just crawl upward — the cost of food and the cost of housing, especially. Those don’t come down. There is only so much you can do with currencies.”

Cheaper US energy prices also help along the re-shoring trend. Fertilizer and chemical firms want to put down roots in the US and plug into cheap sources of natural gas. In Asia, natural gas costs at least four times the price.

“Natural gas production has gotten to the point where we can’t store it all,” Scott says. “Natural gas prices should be even lower. And things that include natural gas as a raw material, such as olefin plastics, propylene and ethylene, should be cheaper to make here. We should have the cheapest propylene and ethylene in the world in the US.”

The same could happen with oil. US production is up 25% since 2008 as new technology cracks up new supplies. As I write, the price of West Texas Intermediate, the US benchmark oil price, is down nearly 16% on the year.

So China’s cost advantages have been ground away in several ways. Still, there are challenges bringing stuff back to the US — like a dearth of manufacturing know-how.

“You have a base of experience in Illinois and Michigan and places that have traditionally been the centers of excellence for some of these manufacturing processes,” Scott said. “A toolmaker who is capable and has kept up with the technology — well, let’s just say there aren’t very many unemployed toolmakers. There’s plenty of opportunity now as people are trying to re-shore stuff.”

I was fascinated by a role reversal Scott described.

“The vast majority of my design engineers are Chinese and work in my office in China,” Scott said. “And these are guys that have been with me for five years or more, in some cases as long as I’ve been in China. I’ve been there eight years. They’ve got a lot of experience.

“So,” he says with a chuckle, “one of the things we’re starting to do is bring some interns from the States to work with them. It’s kind of a role reversal. We have design engineers that actually put lines on paper in China for the products being made in Chicago. Eight years ago, I was taking a handful of older American guys to China with me to help work with these young Chinese designers. And now it’s going back the other way. Now I have young American graduates I’m shipping over there for six months to get experience with people that know what they’re doing.”

Incredible, isn’t it? All things change. As I like to say, if you stand around long enough in markets, you’ll see them come full circle.

US consumers also favor US-made products — to a point. “People love this story,” Scott said. “Having US-made products is an advantage in the marketplace. But on consumer products in particular, as much as people love US-made products, there is a limit to what they’ll pay for them. The economics of it all will still rule the day.”

There are a handful of publicly traded US manufacturers headquartered in places like Milwaukee, Wis., and Mansfield, Ohio, that are lean and world-class competitors. They are in good position to gain from this trend. But, as always, patience is key.

The stock market may be somewhat overzealous in its enthusiasms at this very moment. While keeping my eye on this still-nascent trend, I’ve determined to wait for better prices — and they will come, I have no doubt. In the meantime, though, the revival of American manufacturing is an important story to keep in mind…especially for contrarians who don’t mind getting paid to go against the crowd.


SOURCE: The Daily Reckoning
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Made in USA Label Popular in China, Too: Study

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China consumers are willing to pay more for certain products Made in USA. | Photo Credit: Getty Images

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Nick Zieminski
November 14, 2012

A new study found China consumers are willing to pay more for a product labeled “Made in USA” because they find those products to be higher quality.
Consumers in China are willing to pay a premium for certain products labeled “Made in USA” because they see them as more durable and of higher quality, a new study found.

The report, by the Boston Consulting Group (BCG), found 61 percent of Chinese consumers would pay more for a product made in the United States. When products are of similar price or quality, about 47 percent prefer the U.S.-made alternative, more than double the number who would pick the Chinese-made item.

“The Chinese consumer is quietly concerned about what they’re getting,” said Hal Sirkin, a BCG senior partner and co-author of the BCG study.

Consumers are responding to recent cases of lead paint in toys, tainted milk and other scandals that, in some cases, led to severe penalties for those responsible. As more Chinese enter the middle class, they will increasingly look for value in the goods they buy rather than just the lowest price, which will pressure Chinese manufacturers to improve quality, Sirkin said.

Chinese consumers’ preference for U.S. goods, of course, is not as strong as U.S. consumers’, and its causes are different: Chinese shoppers more often cite durability and environmental impact than do shoppers in the United States.

But the survey still shows a potential advantage for manufacturers or retailers of consumer products, who may be able to charge higher prices for goods made in the United States.

BCG cited several examples of U.S.-based manufacturing: Dell Inc. makes computers; Google Inc. makes Motorola-branded phones; and General Electric Co manufactures home appliances in Kentucky.

PREMIUM FOR U.S. GOODS

The survey of more than 5,000 consumers helps support the argument that more manufacturers should base production in the United States, according to BCG.

As the cost of producing and shipping goods from China rises, more U.S. manufacturers are expected to expand U.S. capacity, BCG predicts. And as U.S. factories churn out more autos and auto parts, electrical equipment and furniture, they could spark an industrial renaissance with 5 million new jobs, it says.

BCG recommends retailers lock in U.S. suppliers to attract shoppers, and is advising consumer brands to make their U.S. sourcing as visible as possible. For now, relatively few do.

“If you’re going to have things that have a long life, like mechanics’ hand tools, there’s real premiums for ‘Made in USA’ over a foreign brand because the quality is better,” Sirkin said. He named Stanley <SWK.N> brand tools as an example.

In both the United States and China, more than 80 percent of those polled cite quality as a reason to pay more for U.S. goods. Baby food, household appliances, tires, car parts and furniture are items for which most people are willing to pay a premium, generally of 10 percent or less.

Some categories are outliers: shoppers in China would pay 77 percent more for U.S.-made athletic shoes, a status symbol.

Patriotism motivates U.S. consumers. More than nine in 10 cited domestic jobs as a reason for choosing “Made in USA” goods. Overall, 81 percent of Americans are likely to pay more for goods that carry the “Made in USA” label. More than a quarter of people are willing to pay at least 10 percent more for appliances, furniture, and baby food.

The BCG study, to be published Thursday, focused on consumer goods rather than pricy capital equipment geared toward business and government. It found only minor differences in attitudes based on age, income and whether respondents had children.

The appeal of U.S. goods is by no means universal, however. French consumers see U.S.-made mobile phones, shoes or baby toys as less valuable than local equivalents, and almost two-thirds of Germans would pay more for German products.

SOURCE: MSN News
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AMERICAN MOUNTAIN CO.: U.S.-MADE ALPINE GEAR WITH STYLE

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AMERICAN MOUNTAIN CO.: U.S.-MADE ALPINE GEAR WITH STYLE | Photo Credit: Outside Magazine

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Gear Shed
November 14, 2012

Mountains test your resilience. Cliffs and cold and striving for the summit push your physical and mental limits. Gravity and fear pull you down, while passion and determination push you higher. It is for these moments, these experiences, that the climber/mountaineer founders of American Mountain Co. design apparel.

Driven by a desire to make products with fortitude and inspired by passion for the experiences unique to the magnificient peaks, the company makes mountain wear reminiscent of a time when climbing was in its purest form and excellence was found in all aspects of a product—when performance and quality were as important as style and design.

American Mountain Co. uses high-tech materials combined with classic style for its products, all manufactured in the United States. Every single stitch of their wears is sewn by a craftsman who takes personal pride in each pass of the needle. And every garment is arduously tested to ensure you can rely on it for a lifetime. When a product is finally deemed perfect, the crafter signs the garment before it’s sent to you with American Mountain Co.’s lifetime guarantee.

The company is launching on Kickstarter now with two products: the No. 907 High-Altitude Hardshell Jacket and the No. 307 Mid-Altitude Windproof Fleece Jacket.

The company took a ground-up approach to design these pieces. The made-in-the-USA fabrics are the best available, and the jackets have innovative features, like a system to keep the base of the jacket tight around your waist, which is far superior to the ubiquitous elastic waist drawcord used in most other jackets. And American Mountain Co.’s hightop collar offers increased wind protection and heat retention. 

—Berne Broudy
@berneb

Available February 2013, $325 for the  #307  and $625 for the  #907 at  americanmountainco.com.

Check out American Mountain Co. on:
Facebook
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Pinterest


SOURCE: Outside Magazine
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American Manufacturing Loses Another Member

in Uncategorized
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Photo of Fessler USA CEO Walter Meck standing in front of idle sewing equipment at the Orwigsburg, Pa., plant. | AP Images

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Kelly Holt
November 13, 2012 

The graveyard of American businesses is receiving another occupant. Orwigsburg, Pennsylvania-based apparel manufacturer FesslerUSA, over 100 years old, is closing its doors. The company, founded in 1900, began by producing cotton underwear, and most recently has marketed private-label fashion knitwear. Its all-American approach to business reflected the values and ingenuity that made American capitalism thrive.

Third-generation owner Walter Meck and other family members bought the company back from the Fessler family after Meck’s father had sold it in 1960. After the advent of “free trade” and NAFTA had claimed its three biggest customers, the company shifted from high-volume mass-market apparel to higher-end products made with more expensive fabrics produced quickly in small quantities. The company adopted a policy of offering organic cotton, and fabrics made from bamboo.

FesslerUSA thrived. So much so that five years ago the company doubled its capacity and moved into a new factory. But it finally fell victim to the Great Recession with its tighter credit standards, Asian competition, and weak consumer spending.

The Detroit News, itself a part of a dying industry (the printed newspaper), quoted Meck as observing, “We knew that it was change or die. We had to reinvent ourselves.”

So reinvent they did. Meck laid off half his workforce and maintained a leaner, more profitable company until 2010, when sales again plummeted. New markets and new product proposals were promising, but not in time to avoid the bank calling the company’s loan.

Meck noted that his company could have survived had he been able to find a lender, but that tightened credit is a common problem for small manufacturers. Chad Moutray, chief economist for the National Association of Manufacturers, told The Detroit News,“Many of [the member companies] have complained to me that the standards for borrowing have become a lot more strict since the recession. It’s much tougher to get a loan today than it was in the past.”

In particular, new lending standards, a casualty of the country’s bailout policy, are what have made it much more difficult for struggling companies to get a loan. That, along with a national program of increased taxation and regulations on producers, has resulted in jobs and production going overseas. Meck also blamed part of his company’s problem on lack of investor interest — not surprising to analysts, given that the economy is scaring investors into hanging onto their money.

Fessler was one of the few remaining vertically integrated companies, meaning that all aspects of production remained under one roof. The company wove its own fabric, and did its own cutting and sewing.

Los Angeles-based American Apparel is an example of a highly successful clothing manufacturer using the vertical integration model, having carved itself a good chunk of a niche market. It has bucked the system. According to The Detroit News report,
Though domestic production has ticked up recently, more than 97 percent of the 19 billion pieces of apparel sold in the United States last year were made somewhere else, primarily in China and other Asian nations, according to Labor Department data compiled by the American Apparel & Footwear Association. Employment has declined 75 percent since the late 1990s, from 621,000 jobs in 1998 to 151,800 today.
At Fessler, that job loss has a face. The News continued,
Cutting room manager Gloria Bambrick, has worked in the garment industry for 32 years. Her previous two employers also shut their doors. With Fessler set to join them, she’s not sure what she will do.

“’It’s going to be tough for me to get a job because of my age,” said Bambrick, who became the sole breadwinner for her stepdaughter and elderly mother after the recent death of her husband. “I am very strapped. I will need a good job.”’

Bambrick mourns the disappearance of so many textile jobs: “I am an American girl and I wish more people would think like me and would have left the industry here and not sent it overseas.”

Americans still do have choices, although they are shrinking. Though die-hard label-readers are finding fewer and fewer items made anywhere but China, analysts note that perseverance can pay off. In addition to American Apparel, “Made in the USA” labels can still be found at Munro Shoes, Finley Shirts, Unis, and Patricia Wolf, among others.

For Fessler, however, the run is over. Production will shut down in November after nearly 113 years, leaving 130 employees out of work. Meck commented,
I don’t want people to be sorry. I want people to be proud we lasted this long. I want people to be proud we tried. We did good work. There is nothing to be upset about. In today’s economy and today’s world, it didn’t work.
Now more than ever, critics say, Americans should step up the efforts to Buy American, to prevent more Fessler stories.

SOURCE: The New American
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image for article - Made in USA iPhone?

Foxconn in America? Not So Fast.

in Manufacturing, Reshoring, Supply Chains, Technology

Foxconn and the American Factory Dream: Are U.S. Manufacturing Jobs on the Table?

The contract manufacturing giant behind many of tech’s biggest names — including Apple — has stated that it has no current plans to expand its operations in North America.

So when headlines surfaced claiming that Foxconn was scouting U.S. locations for new manufacturing plants, it sparked immediate interest. In an economy still recovering from global disruptions and job losses, any hint of new factory jobs in the U.S. is bound to make waves.

Read more

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Popular Wrench Fights a Chinese Rival

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SHAILA DEWAN
November 8, 2012

Last Christmas, Sears had a brisk seller in the Bionic Wrench, an award-winning, patented tool with spiffy lime green accents. This holiday season, though, Sears has a special display for its own wrench, in the red and black colors of its house brand, Craftsman.
One customer who recently spotted the new Craftsman tool, called the Max Axess wrench, thought it was an obvious knockoff, right down to the try-me packaging. “I saw it and I said, ‘This is a Bionic Wrench,’ ” recalled Dana Craig, a retiree and tool enthusiast in Massachusetts who alerted the maker of the Bionic Wrench. “It’s a very distinctive tool,” he added.

The tools have one significant difference, Mr. Craig noted. The Bionic Wrench is made in the United States. The Max Axess wrench is made in China.

The shift at Sears from a tool invented and manufactured in the United States to a very similar one made offshore has already led to a loss of American jobs and a brewing patent battle.

The story of the Bionic Wrench versus Craftsman, which bills itself as “America’s most trusted tool brand,” also raises questions about how much entrepreneurs and innovators, who rely on the country’s intellectual property laws, can protect themselves. For the little guy, court battles are inevitably time-consuming and costly, no matter the outcome.

Still, the inventor of the Bionic Wrench is determined to fight. He is Dan Brown, an industrial designer in Chicago who came up with the wrench after watching his son try to work on a lawn mower. Mr. Brown says he believes that the Max Axess wrench copies his own and he is planning to file suit against Sears, which declined to answer any questions about the wrenches for this article.

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John Gress for The New York Times | Dan Brown, inventor of the Bionic Wrench, is defending his patent rights against the Max Axess, made in China.

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William P. O’Donnell/The New York Times | The Bionic Wrench is made in America by Penn United Technologies. Sears sells the Max Axess, sourced from China.

The Bionic Wrench is distinguished by its gripping mechanism, a circle of metal prongs that, inspired by the shutter in a single-lens reflex camera, descend evenly to lock onto almost any nut or bolt.

Since Sears has halted new orders, the Pennsylvania company that makes the Bionic Wrench has had to lay off 31 workers, said Keith Hammer, the project manager at the company, Penn United Technologies. “And that’s not to mention our suppliers,” he added.

Mr. Brown sees a broader issue than just the fate of his wrench. “Our situation is an example of why we’re not getting jobs out of innovation,” he said. “When people get the innovation, they go right offshore. What happened to me is what happened to so many people so many times, and we just don’t talk about it.”

Inventors typically spend $10,000 to $50,000 to obtain the type of patent Mr. Brown has on the wrench, said John S. Pratt, a patent expert at Kilpatrick Townsend & Stockton in Atlanta. Though he said he could not comment on the merits of Mr. Brown’s potential suit, patent infringement cases can be especially difficult in the tool field, where many improvements are incremental, Mr. Pratt explained.

A defendant in such a case would most likely argue that either the tool did not warrant a patent in the first place, or that its own product did not violate the patent.

The fact that Sears made some changes to the wrench’s design, like making the grooves that allow the metal prongs to slide back and forth visible instead of hidden, will make the case more challenging, he said. “It’s hard for me to imagine that Sears isn’t particularly careful about breach of patent, so there’s probably another side to the story,” he said.

After patenting the wrench in 2005, Mr. Brown formed a company, LoggerHead Tools, to bring it to market, making a point of having it made in the United States.

The Bionic Wrench was greeted with enthusiasm at trade shows and in industrial design competitions, and the company survived the downturn in 2008. Mr. Brown resisted overtures from large chain stores that wanted to sell the tool under their proprietary brand, he said, and rejected the lure of cheaper manufacturing in China. “I was raised a different way,” he said.

The tool sold fairly well on its own — LoggerHead has shipped 1.75 million of them — but Mr. Brown, 56, who teaches industrial design at Northwestern University, says LoggerHead operated on a shoestring and he plowed much of the profit back into the company. “You cannot have big offices and fancy cars and everybody with an administrative assistant, because we are competing with China,” he said.

In 2009, LoggerHead hit pay dirt when Sears agreed to do a test sale. The product sold out, Mr. Brown said, and Sears ordered 75,000 Bionic Wrenches the next year. In exchange Mr. Brown agreed not to sell the wrench to Sears’s competitors, including Home Depot and Lowe’s.

In 2011, sales at Sears increased again, far outpacing LoggerHead’s other outlets like the QVC shopping channel and smaller hardware stores. But LoggerHead’s profit margin remained small, in part because it produced a television commercial and paid Sears to show it.

The Sears Holdings Company, which owns the Craftsman brand, declined multiple requests to comment on the Bionic Wrench or the Max Axess Wrench. The company would not answer questions about patent infringement or the volume of sales.

But in a string of e-mails provided by Mr. Brown, the buyer at Sears who had the LoggerHead account wrote, making liberal use of exclamation points, that the wrench’s holiday sales last year exceeded its target by 23 percent.

In the manufacturing world, lead time can determine price, and from the beginning cost was a particular issue for the Bionic Wrench, because of the competition from China. A 2006 article in The Wall Street Journal was headlined, “Wrench Wins Awards, but Is It Priced Too High to Be a Hit?”

According to Mr. Brown’s account of his dealings with Sears, the chain was pleased with the tool’s performance and agreed to place an order for 2012 in plenty of time to keep the cost low. Then his buyer at Sears changed and that agreement seemed to get lost in a new round of haggling. When the order for Father’s Day
finally cam
e, Mr. Brown said, it was too late to guarantee the lower price. He refused the order.

Sears responded by agreeing to the higher price. But when it came time for the Christmas holiday order, negotiations stalled once more, again pushing LoggerHead past the deadline to get the best price, according to Mr. Brown.

“We were sitting there going, ‘Why do they want Father’s Day so bad but they won’t commit for Christmas?’ ” Mr. Brown said. Now he believes that the company had already placed its order for the Craftsman version.

In late September, Mr. Brown said, his suspicions were confirmed. LoggerHead got a “customer feedback” e-mail from Mr. Craig, the tool connoisseur, describing the new Max Axess wrenches. “Sadly, they are made in China,” Mr. Craig wrote. “Can you tell me if LoggerHead has authorized these?”

Craftsman has come under fire before, accused of misleading customers into thinking that its tools are made in America and for stealing intellectual property. In one case, Sears spent two decades defending itself against a claim by Peter M. Roberts, who as a young Sears employee had, on his own time, invented a type of socket wrench.

Mr. Roberts told the court that Sears had played down the value of his invention, paid him $10,000 for the rights, and then made tens of millions of dollars. He eventually received settlements of less than $10 million, according to news reports.

In another, more recent case led by Lee Grossman, Mr. Brown’s lawyer, a judge awarded $25 million to the maker of a tool called the Rotozip who said he had disclosed trade secrets to Sears in an attempt to get the store to carry a new version of the tool.

Sears, a jury decided, took the trade secrets and had the tool made abroad for Craftsman.

“You have LoggerHead out, Dan Brown out, and dozens of American workers laid off — all in the name of profits for Sears,” Mr. Grossman said.

LoggerHead’s lawsuit, Mr. Brown said, will most likely include claims that Sears interfered with the company’s ability to do business with other stores.

“I’m in favor of free trade,” Mr. Brown said. “The person who’s out-innovated loses. But it’s destructive when someone competes but doesn’t out-innovate, they just produce it in a different market without regard to safety codes and human conditions.”

The company that makes the Max Axess wrench and other tools for Craftsman, the Apex Tool Group, is being acquired by Bain Capital, the company founded by Mitt Romney, in a $1.6 billion deal.

Throughout the presidential campaign, Bain was criticized on the grounds that it encouraged outsourcing by companies it buys at the expense of American workers. Apex makes many of its tools overseas. A company spokesman referred all questions to Sears.

Mr. Brown and his lawyer say they believe they have a solid case against Sears, but it could take years to litigate. “What happens to us in the meantime?” Mr. Brown asked.

Mr. Brown is also concerned that while he fights in court, Sears can undercut the price of his wrench.

For now at least, Sears still has some of Mr. Brown’s wrenches in its inventory. On the Sears Web site, the Craftsman and the LoggerHead wrenches are listed at the same regular price, $24.99 for the 8-inch version, and today both are on sale. But for at least a few days in recent weeks, only the Craftsman version was on sale, for $19.99.

A version of this article appeared in print on November 9, 2012, on page B1 of the New York edition with the headline: An Innovator vs. a Follower.


SOURCE:  The New York Times
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How New Parents Can Bring Back ‘Made in the USA’

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Gary Osborne
Founder & Creative Director, Oliver & Adelaide
11/07/2012


The Presidential election is over, but the campaign’s number one issue, jobs, lingers on. In today’s economy, as we heard time and again in the debates and countless ads, a huge part of that issue has been the question of how we can return manufacturing jobs to the United States. From a policy point of view, the U.S. trade deficit remains a vexing, complex problem. But that doesn’t mean that there aren’t some simple, commonsense actions that consumers, retailers and citizens can take on their own, irrespective of who sits in the Oval Office.

As an online retailer of baby and toddler products made exclusively in the U.S., I am in a position to see an area where American manufacturing is trying to make a comeback.

Manufacturing American-Made Values

The word “manufacturing” tends to conjure images of industrial assembly lines and heavy machinery. But it’s worth remembering that the word means, at root, “to work by hand.” The vendors I work with range from a retired schoolteacher who crochets blankets to savvy, garment-industry veterans who have struck out on their own with smaller design ventures. Whatever the size of their respective enterprises, these are true businesspeople; I would not be able to work with them if they weren’t capable of delivering products on time, season in and season out.

They are also people who are operating from a system of core values — paramount among them, that “Made in the USA” still matters. It matters for a country where that label remains a source of pride. It matters for the environment, when it makes a real difference whether a product needs to be transported 200 miles versus 6,000 miles. And for parents, it matters perhaps most of all in terms of quality and safety.

What’s at Stake

My own background is in the fashion industry. I’ve lived in China, overseeing production at factories there, and seen firsthand how impersonal and indifferent that process can be. As a parent of two young children, I know that what I buy for them ends up in their hands and, inevitably, their mouths. So for every piece of clothing, each doll and toy I purchase, I want to know exactly how it was made, what it is made of and where it’s been. My experience tells me that when something comes from half a world away, you simply cannot know where it’s been sitting, and for how long, on what warehouse floor, in what cargo ship — and, to me, that’s unacceptable. When scarcely a week goes buy without a recall of a foreign-made product, that’s unacceptable, too.

What “Made in the USA” Means in a World of Choices

Being a new parent can be, let’s face it, intimidating. We are presented with an overwhelming list of products that we are told we need to buy in order to be a “good parent,” and then faced with thousands of choices from scores of brands. My company, Oliver & Adelaide, grew out of my own process of trying to separate the things a parent really needs from the marketing hype, and trying to find the very best manufacturers making these products here in the USA.

Very few parents have the time to undertake this kind of research, and fewer still have the opportunity to visit studios and factories. I have made it my business. In seeing for myself where the products are designed and made and inspecting the raw materials used to make them, I have discovered an impressive group of businesses that put a very personal degree of care and concern into every step of their manufacturing processes. And in meeting these suppliers, I have also discovered that they also bring real passion and pride to what they do.

Small businesses like Loop, which was founded in 2010 by two knit designers to create heirloom quality children’s clothes and blankets, or Zuzii, which uses the highest-quality materials and employs traditional cobbler techniques to handcraft shoes for babies and toddlers, are making outstanding products here in the United States, and doing so with love. But without the huge sales forces and marketing budgets of larger companies that outsource manufacture overseas, they face an uphill climb when it comes to connecting with parents. And because they insist on making American products with American labor and materials, they are unable to take advantage of the mass manufacturing that drives down costs for major brands.

Good for Baby, Good for the Economy

These are the kinds of manufacturers who depend on small retailers to spread word of their products. I’m proud to play a part in that. More than that, though, they depend on parents who will make it a point to buy American — even if it means buying fewer items, but of significantly higher quality. Births, aside from being a joyous experience for each family, are also tremendous drivers of the economy; much like house sales, they set in motion a cascade of purchases. If parents commit to supporting manufacturers who believe in the USA, I believe we can take a real step towards bringing jobs back to this country. In doing so, we may find that the answer to fixing the trade imbalance lies not with any particular policy — or any particular candidat — but, rather, in our own hands.

It’s an approach that could benefit all sectors of our economy. Why not start with the purchases that end up in the hands of our children?


SOURCE:  Huffington Post
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Carhartt's Patriotic New Made-in-USA Line, Old Made-in-USA Line

in Uncategorized
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Abe Sauer
November 7, 2012 

During the now concluded contentious presidential election, the subject of manufacturing — specifically, the geological location of it — was a major topic of battle. One story to come out of all of the China-stealing-US-jobs talk was “reshoring,” or the common declaration of “the return of manufacturing.”
Maybe because of its fashionable profile, the garment industry has been in particular focus. Newsworthy instances include the US Olympic team’s made-in-China uniforms by Ralph Lauren and conservative pundit Glenn Beck’s launch of 1791, his flag-waving denim line.

But clothing brand Carhartt has been making its clothing in the US since, well, forever. And now its is working to make this fact more a part of its message.

Carhartt’s tan, swirly wave logo on its characteristically tan garments is probably familiar even to those who don’t count on the brand for work wear. But construction workers, truckers, welders, farmers, and just about anyone else in America who works outside an office have a special appreciation for the brand.

“Best for wear” and “From the mill to millions” have been a couple of the mottos the brand has used since it was founded in 1889 by its namesake, Hamilton Carhartt. The “Made in America” tags on its clothing was more or less an afterthought. But now, Carhartt has released a “Made in the USA” line featuring some of its most iconic products. The line, Carhartt says, is “stitched on American soil for any person that believes in hard work.”

“Rather than follow trends, our goal is to always design and manufacture premium work-worthy apparel at a price that respects our consumer’s hard-earned dollar,” Carhartt Vice President of Marketing, Tony Ambroza, told brandchannel when asked about the new line’s timing. When asked any Carhartt chose now to stress its “Made in America” bona-fides, Ambroza said, “Our Made in the USA line of apparel was created in response to consumer feedback; they told us they wanted to know exactly which products we make and source in the U.S. We were able to shift some product to other manufacturing facilities in order to accommodate production of these popular styles.”

With the rough economy driving some to pay more attention to buying domestically-made products, Carhartt’s move is a wise one, especially since the brand can back up its marketing. “Made in America” marketing can backfire, as Gap learned in 2010 when its much-touted “made in the USA” products were revealed to have been “made in China.” Plus, since Carhartt was already manufacturing in the US and known and revered far more for its high quality, the line is simply a smart bit of existing brand identity boosting.

But a recent study published by the Clothing and Textiles Research Journal argues that American consumers overvalue US-made apparel. From the study:
“Jung Ha-Brookshire, an assistant professor in the textile and apparel management department in the College of Human Environmental Sciences at MU, surveyed American consumers to determine the value they place on apparel produced in different countries. She showed participants a cotton shirt, told them it was made in China, and said it sold for $40 in retail stores. She then showed them the same piece of clothing and told them it was made in the U.S. with U.S. cotton. The study participants valued the U.S. cotton shirt at $57, which is more than 42 percent higher than the same shirt produced in China.”
Meanwhile, asked if Carhartt has ever considered a “retro,” more fashionable line, Ambroza replied, “Our commitment is first and foremost to serve the needs of the American worker on the job. That said, we do recognize that providing products that can be worn on-and-off the job site is a benefit to the workers who purchase Carhartt products.”

With this in mind, Ambroza hinted that the line was not yet complete, suggesting Carhartt fans “look for additional USA-made exclusives this holiday season.”

SOURCE:  BrandChannel
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Made in America Markets Create Communities of Like-Minded Consumers

in Uncategorized
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Emanuella Grinberg
November 5, 2012

(CNN) — They could’ve gone shopping much closer to home. Instead, Tomo Adachi and Lauren Kennedy packed up the car, drove six hours from Columbus, Ohio, to Chicago, got a hotel and made a weekend of it.
This wasn’t your typical outlet mall excursion or antiquing road trip. The pair of 20-something graphic designers were in the market for quality American-made clothing and accessories, and they wanted to meet the people behind the goods.

They arrived in town late Friday night and were among the first to show up on a recent crisp October morning at a warehouse in Chicago’s Fulton Market area. Music by Band of Horses played softly in the background, giving the airy, white-washed loft space an ambiance equal parts gallery opening and trade show. A large vintage American flag looming over the showroom signaled the common domestic origin of the clothing, accessories, shoes, bicycles and skin care products for sale.

Adachi and Kennedy were already fans of some of the brands at NorthernGRADE, a pop-up menswear market of American-made goods making its Chicago debut two years after launching in Minnesota. Meeting the crafters, designers and small-business owners behind the brands added to the appeal, they said.

“I like the idea of craftsmanship. I feel like the brands are doing it because they care and there’s something about that that’s very commendable. I’d rather support that than go to the mall and buy something made overseas,” said Adachi, 25.

“We had to come, especially since events like this don’t happen much in the Midwest,” said Kennedy, a 23-year-old self-described “made in America freak” who was turned onto the concept by her boyfriend. “It’s so awesome to see people doing what they love. It’s evident in the quality of their products.”

About 800 people turned up for NorthernGRADE Chicago, according to organizers’ estimates, from across the Midwest and beyond, underscoring the growing popularity of the made in America movement in style and fashion, especially among younger consumers.

The markets are fueling the movement beyond the country’s major fashion markets, where the concept has proven successful. NorthernGRADE is modeled after New York City’s annual Pop-Up Flea, which began in 2009 as a showcase of brands mostly from the United States known for their quality goods. The creators of NorthernGRADE adopted the model for a Midwestern audience by focusing on brands from region. But the focus on quality brands hasn’t changed, said Katherine McMillan of men’s accessory line Pierrepont Hicks, which co-founded NorthernGRADE.

“I would not feel comfortable producing this market if I didn’t believe in all of the brands we invite to take part,” she said. “We all have similar philosophies and ethics about our products. If someone’s products don’t turn out to meet (our standards), we don’t invite them back.”
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Shoppers browse American-made clothing at a pop-up market in Chicago. | Photo Credit: Jessica Koscielniak/Getty Images for CNN

It’s a phenomenon that draws comparisons to the slow food movement, farmers’ markets and food and wine festivals as venues for showcasing artisanal approaches to crafting goods. By allowing consumers to touch the materials and talk to vendors about where the products came from, brands can educate them on why they’re worth the markup.

“The Midwest has long history of manufacturing, but no one was cheering it on until now,” said fashion and brand consultant Noah Zagor, who showed up at the market dressed the part in a vintage denim Levi’s jacket and Alden “Indy” boots, both of which were made in the United States.

“There’s a new generation of men learning about basics of getting dressed, and they want knowledge. They want to know where their stuff comes from.”

It’s tempting to want to stereotype supporters of American-made apparel as either a bunch of trendy urbanites who want to look like lumberjacks on the weekend or blue-collar workers expressing patriotism through their work boots. But this event brought in visitors of all stripes. Teenagers dragged their parents along for their wallets while middle-aged men scanned the displays for unadorned pairs of jeans and silver-haired couples, who remembered the days when manufacturing plants dotted the Midwest, tried on trapper hats.

One thing they all seemed to share was nostalgia for an era when clothing and accessories were made to last, regardless of whether they were actually alive during that time.

One man came from London in search of “a few bits of inspiration” for a potential American-made and UK-made retail concept in England, which is also experiencing a wave of nostalgia for a time when clothing was made closer to home.

“People like me want to stray from goods made in the Far East,” said David Swetman, a 27-year-old freelance designer who resembled a menswear model in a Barbour jacket and fisherman’s sweater over a flannel shirt, JW Hulme duffel bag slung over his shoulder.

“We’re swinging away from fast fashion, and we’re willing to invest and spend more on quality,” he said. Sure enough, he left the market about an hour later with a $300 Archival waxed cotton vest, a $195 shawl-collared Pendleton sweater and leather shoelaces of different colors. “A nice way to accessorize your brogues,” he noted.

For anyone who might use the words “classic,” “structured,” “Americana” or “heritage” to describe their personal style, there was plenty to covet: colorful racks of Oxford cloth button-ups, thick shawl-collared sweaters, jeans from some of the hottest names in premium denim and all manner of vintage.

Footwear fanatics had their choice of leather boots and shoes in every imaginable color and texture from Red Wing and Oak Street, two boot makers representing old and new school establishments. Tables displayed unisex accessories, from sturdy canvas rucksacks, shoulder bags and pencil cases to wool trapper hats and candy-colored assortments of neckties, bow ties and blankets.

Like other market-goers, Adachi was dressed as though his outfit had come from the showroom: Red Wing Heritage boots (made in America), Raleigh Denim jeans (naturally), flannel shirt (no) and Hill-Side scarf (yes) over a henley (no).

Kennedy also looked the part in dark jeans, vintage pullover sweater and boots, though none of it was made in America, underscoring arguments that clothing made in America can be prohibitively expensive or hard to find.

What would make her wardrobe more patriotic, so to speak? “More shows like this would help,” she said. “It’s hard to find this stuff in person.”
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Chicago retailer Sir & Madame sell socks at the NorthernGRADE pop-up market. | Phto Credit: Jessica Koscielniak/Getty Images for CNN

Maybe it’s the election season or the state of the economy or the approaching holiday season, but industry insiders agree an increasing amount of products and services are coming out with the made in America tagline.

Radio host Glenn Beck last month announced his line of American-made jeans, which gets its denim from the same North Carolina mill used by many premium jean brands. Made Collection, an online flash site sale, launched this fall offering American-made products at discounted prices. In time for the holiday season, luxury and mass market retailers such as Anthropologie, Urban Outfitters and Barneys are continuing the trend of partnering with independent brands and designers who make their products in America.

It’s also been a busy year for pop-up markets. The Chicago show marked NorthernGRADE’s first incursion into another city, two years after it was started by Pierrepont Hicks and J.W. Hulme. Another show is scheduled for Minneapolis in December, which will be its third there this year. In 2013, it plans to expand to San Francisco, Nashville, Denver and Moscow.

Another pop-up, American Field, debuted in Boston the weekend before NorthernGRADE Chicago and featured 40 vendors, organizer Mark Bollman said.

“It’s one thing to read about companies making things in the U.S. or to check a label, but I think it’s a whole other thing to have a physical representation of like-minded companies in one place,” said Bollman, founder of Boston-based outfitter Ball and Buck. “You can directly see and understand the growth of this movement and really understand the impact of a purchase, be it big or small.”

The markets featured a combination of businesses that use American factories and workshops to produce their goods along with artisans and crafters who, by virtue of living in the United States, make their product here. Across all categories, the raw materials may or may not be domestically sourced depending on availability, with hardware such as zippers, snaps and woven fabric among the materials in shortest supply in the United States.

The growing hype has some worried that “made in America” is on the precipice of becoming a passing style trend before it actually has a chance to realize its oft-cited underlying goals.

“The initial made in the USA message was about bringing jobs back to the country to stimulate the economy, ending the dependency on other countries for goods and bringing back the education and know-how that comes along with the industry. All that’s being diluted and boiled down into the message of buy made in the USA. The bottom has been taken out and become a selling point,” said Chicago-based menswear blogger and digital strategist Brad Bennett, who helped coordinate NorthernGRADE.

It’s unclear whether interest in American-made clothing correlates with an increase in industrial domestic manufacturing of clothing, which declined by 0.7% from September 2011 to September 2012, according to the Federal Reserve’s numbers on industrial production. However, preliminary numbers for September showed a 1.6% increase over the previous month.

That’s where the markets come into play, to create a movement by bringing together consumers, brands and retailers who are doing their part to raise the profile of American-made fashion.

“It’s definitely a celebration of things made here but also a celebration of the people making it,” said Bennett, whose blog, Well Spent, features “obtainable, honestly crafted goods” from the United States and abroad.

“It’s a pretty cool thing to pick up a bag knowing it’s going to last the rest of your life and then shake the hand of the person who made it,” he said. “You’re not just coming to NorthernGRADE to spend money, you meet people and it’s sort of like, here’s your community.”
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Nick Rokosz, 16, looks through vintage coats from MidNorth Mercantile. | Photo Credit: Jessica Koscielniak/Getty Images for CNN

It’s a doggedly enthusiastic community of people who are obsessed with craftsmanship and design. They’re not only entrepreneurs but experts and storytellers who can spin a loooong yarn on the virtues of selvedge denim, waxed cotton and Chromexcel leather. Like Tony Patella, co-founder of Tellason jeans, who explained in an hourlong phone interview why the weave and dye of his denim makes it more expensive per yard compared to denim used for jeans in the mass market.

A big part of selling made in America is educating the consumer on what they get from their investment, said Lesli Larson, co-founder of Archival Clothing, whose best-selling roll top backpack goes for $220.

“You pay upfront, but you buy sparingly and wisely with the idea that you’re going to use this piece for many seasons and eventually you get pennies per wear,” she said.

Her business grew out of her blog, which documented “long-lost artifacts” from Montgomery Ward catalogs and Americana-inspired fashion being produced in Japan with old machines and equipment purchased from the United States.

“The shift of moving past a state of nostalgia to what can we do to make this a reality using available resources has been the challenge,” said Larson, who has kept her job as an archivist at the University of Oregon-Eugene even as her business has grown.

Larson relishes the opportunity to share her knowledge, which she did with fans including Adachi, who spent more than three hours floating around the showroom before deciding to drop $300 on an Archival vest. His girlfriend’s big-ticket purchase was a pair of Tellason jeans for $198. They were confident that the purchases were worth the money, not only for their quality but because of the stories behind them.

It reminded Adachi of a TED Talk by Simon Sinek who put forth the idea that people don’t buy what you do, they buy why you do it.

“I’m the type of person who’s more interested in why,” Adachi said.

For others, though, the origin of the goods was not nearly as important as their quality.

“I came to the event for the uniqueness of the collections,” said Jeff Medchill, a mortgage industry auditor who also picked up a pair of Tellason jeans. “American-made is not a strong point, I wouldn’t go out of my way to avoid or buy American-made.”

Collin Moody said he was drawn to the event because he supported Chicago-based retailers Haberdash and Penelope’s, which were showing at the market. Normally, not everything they carry in their stores is domestically made, reflecting a commonly held position among consumers and stockists that buying made in America is secondary to sourcing high-quality products made responsibly regardless of their origin.

“We’re interested in
the
ethics of the products. We try to be conscious of where they come from and who’s making them,” said Moody, 21, also a student. “It also helps us not be wasteful.”

For retired carpenter Paul Hortenstine, the market was simply an opportunity “to find quality products made in the USA.”

He and his wife made the trip from Shorewood, Illinois, after learning of the event on Twitter. He had his sights set on a Stormy Kromer trapper hat, but stopped on his way over to quiz George Vlagos, proprietor of Oak Street Boots, on the origin of material for his footwear (Horween Leather of Chicago).

“This guy from Oak Street Bootmakers, he’s making quality product. I’m all for seeing people succeed making quality products in the U.S.,” Hortenstine happily exclaimed as he walked away without purchasing a pair, which run from $200 to $500.

“The price is high but quality justifies it,” he said. “Maybe you can buy it all or you can focus on one or two things.”

He finally settled on two hats in different colors from Stormy Kromer, which have been made in Ironwood, Michigan, for more than 100 years. He also picked up a vest, a recent addition to Stormy Kromer’s apparel catalog, reflecting the success of what sales rep Joel Anderson called “the Trojan horse approach.”

“They come for the hats, because that’s what we’re known for, and they find our apparel,” said Anderson, whose brand was one of few at NorthernGRADE that fell into the heritage category (along with Red Wing) for its long history. While Stormy Kromer is an established brand, being in the same space alongside up-and-coming brands puts it in front of a new, younger audience of consumers and potential wholesalers.

“It’s a three-pronged approach. Educate consumers on our rich history and story, meet fellow vendors, and get new retail business,” he said. “You never know who’s going to come in.”


SOURCE: CNN
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What is Made in America Worth? More than you might think!

What Is ‘Made in America’ Worth?

in American Made, Domestic Sourcing, Economy, Made in USA, Manufacturing & Sourcing
Probably more than you think. As more manufacturing returns to U.S. shores, early signs show that a “Made in America” label is a serious competitive advantage.

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It's Global Warming, Stupid

in Uncategorized
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Paul M. Barrett
November 01, 2012

Yes, yes, it’s unsophisticated to blame any given storm on climate change. Men and women in white lab coats tell us—and they’re right—that many factors contribute to each severe weather episode. Climate deniers exploit scientific complexity to avoid any discussion at all.

Clarity, however, is not beyond reach. Hurricane Sandy demands it: At least 40 U.S. deaths. Economic losses expected to climb as high as $50 billion. Eight million homes without power. Hundreds of thousands of people evacuated. More than 15,000 flights grounded. Factories, stores, and hospitals shut. Lower Manhattan dark, silent, and underwater.

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